discover the sewing techniques to create a perfect pocket

Whether you’re new to sewing or an expert looking for tips and advice, I’m here to share with you my secrets for sewing perfect pockets. In this article discover the different techniques to successfully create your patch pockets, reserved pockets and other styles, always with class and elegance. So prepare your materials and have patience, you will love sewing these wonderful, useful and trendy accessories!

The different types of pockets

Before tackling the production techniques it is essential to know the different types of pockets:

• Patch pockets: They are sewn to the outside of the garment and are visible. They can have different shapes, be rounded or rectangular.
• Reserved pockets: They are made inside the garment so as to reveal only a slit, which can be straight, inclined or horizontal.
• Hand pockets: They appear in the form of vertical slits on the sides of the head to allow the hands to pass through easily.
• Welt pockets: They are made using strips of fabric called «piping», which create a pleasant aesthetic contrast around the pocket slot.
• Zippered pockets: These pockets have a zip for added security and a modern finish.

How to sew a patch pocket?

1. Prepare your template and materials

First you need to choose the type of patch pocket you want to make (round, rectangular, etc.). Measure the required dimensions and record them on your template. Also remember to provide seam allowances to assemble the pocket correctly. Get matching thread and a needle that fits your fabric.

2. Cut and assemble the pocket

Cut two identical pieces from the fabric into the desired shape. Trim the edges to prevent them from fraying over time. Optionally, add a gusset on one of the sides to further hold items in the pocket. Then assemble the two pieces of fabric wrong side together and sew all the way around the pocket about 1cm from the edge. Make sure you leave a small opening to turn the pocket right side out, then close it with invisible stitches.

3. Position and sew the pocket onto the garment

Mark on your clothing where you want to attach the patch pocket. Pin the pocket to the fabric, making sure to line up the edges with those of the garment. Then sew the pocket on three sides, taking care to leave the top part open to insert objects.

How to create a private pocket?

1. Make marks on the pattern and fabric

Select the type of vent you want (straight, slanted, etc.) and transfer the dimensions to the pattern and fabric. Don’t forget to include seam allowances and make sure the pocket size is consistent with the size of the garment.

2. Prepare and assemble the pocket base

Cut two identical pieces of fabric and join them right sides together on one side. Leave a section unsewn to create the pocket lining.

3. Cut and prepare the pocket slot

Transfer the slit marks to the wrong side of the main fabric, then cut following these marks, being careful not to cut too far. It’s best to leave some excess fabric so you can adjust it if necessary.

4. Sew the bottom of the pocket to the slit

Align the bottom pocket opening with the pocket slot and secure them together. Sew all the way around the vent about 1cm from the edge, then press the seams to ensure a good fit.

5. Close the reserved pocket

Fold the edges of two opposite sides of the pocket towards each other and sew them together, taking care to flatten the seam allowances. Now you’re ready to easily place items in this beautiful private pocket!

In summary

Sewing a patch or a reserved pocket requires a few simple and well-mastered steps. Arm yourself with patience, carefully follow the advice I have given you and above all have fun practicing this exciting art of sewing. Happy creating everyone!

About the author

Clarisse Mercier

As a sewing lover, I manage the editorial side of ZoneCouture and share my discoveries and advice around this art here.