Everything you need to know about the folded seam technique

Sewing is an art that requires mastery of different techniques to achieve flawless and long-lasting results. One such technique is the folded seamoften used in the making of clothing items such as jeans, shirts or even leather accessories. In this article I will explain in detail how to perform this sewing method and thus add a new skill to your repertoire of sewing know-how.

What is a felled seam?

The folded seam is a technique that allows you to obtain a clean and solid finish, especially at the level of the edges and seams. It consists of folding one of the two edges of the fabric and sewing the other edge over it, in order to reinforce and hide the seams. This sewing method can be done by hand or with a sewing machine and offers numerous benefits.

The advantages of the folded seam

• Solidity : The folded seam allows for a robust finish, capable of resisting wear and tear and the tension exerted on the garment or accessory.
• Aesthetics : By hiding the seams, this technique offers a clean and tidy visual result, both inside and outside the garment.
• Comfort : Thanks to the folded seam, the edges of the fabric are protected and do not risk fraying or causing irritation when in contact with the skin. This method is therefore ideal for creating tight-fitting and comfortable clothing.

How to make a folded seam?

To make a folded seam, follow the steps below:

1. Preparation of the edges : Before starting to sew it is essential to prepare the edges of the two pieces of fabric to be joined. To do this, you need to cut one edge slightly wider than the other (about 5 mm) so that you can fold it over later.
2. Edge overlap : Place the two pieces of fabric right sides together, aligning the uncovered edges. Sew approximately 1cm from the edge (or second value recommended sewing distance), then press the seams open. This results in a first flat seam that connects the two pieces of fabric.
3. Folding and stitching : Take the widest edge of the two pieces (the one you cut at the beginning) and fold it to the wrong side, so that it covers the first flat seam. Make sure the folded edge is aligned and flat, then sew a second seam stitching on the right side of the fabric, about 2 mm from the fold. This new seam thus keeps the folded edge and reinforces the whole.

And there you have it, the braided stitching is done! Now you can apply this technique to your various construction projects to achieve solid and aesthetic finishes.

Tips for successful sewing

For optimal results and easier execution of your folded seam, I recommend you follow these few tips:

• Choose the right material : Before you start sewing, make sure you have a suitable sewing machine equipped with a suitable presser foot (for example, a walking foot) or special needles for thick materials.
• Adjust the thread tension : Depending on the type of fabric you are using, you may need to adjust your sewing machine thread tension slightly to prevent the stitching from pulling the fabric too tight. Don’t hesitate to do some testing on scraps to find the ideal setting.
• Pin and mark the edges : To make it easier to align and fold the edges during sewing, you can mark the folds with an iron and pin the different elements. This step will help you maintain clean, smooth work.

When to use the felled seam?

Now that you know how to sew a felled seam, it’s important to know when to use it in your sewing projects. Here are some examples of situations in which this sewing method will be particularly suitable:

• Denim or heavy canvas clothing : The strength and durability of the folded seam makes it an ideal technique for making jeans, canvas pants, jackets, etc.
• Shirts and tops : Folded seams provide a clean, comfortable finish for shirts, blouses and other fitted tops.
• Accessories in leather or imitation leather : Due to its robustness, the folded seam is also suitable for making leather accessories such as belts, bags or bum bags.

Now you are ready to successfully make folded seams. Don’t hesitate to practice on different types of fabrics and apply this technique to your sewing projects to achieve solid and aesthetic finishes. Happy sewing!

About the author

Clarisse Mercier

As a sewing lover, I manage the editorial side of ZoneCouture and share my discoveries and advice around this art here.