Best practices for sewing with Lycra fabric

Lycra fabric, often used to create swimsuits and sportswear, is a stretchy, comfortable material that offers great freedom of movement. However, it can be difficult to work with while sewing. In this article I will explain the best practices for sewing with lycra fabric so you can complete your projects successfully.

Choose the right tools

To get started, it is essential to select the right tools for working with Lycra fabric. Here are some suggestions:

• Use special needles for stretch fabrics. These needles have a rounded tip that penetrates the fabric more easily without damaging it.
• Opt for one rotary cutter rather than a pair of scissors to cut fabric. The cutter will allow a cleaner and more precise cut, which will then facilitate sewing.
• Work with a polyester yarnbecause it is more resistant and elastic than cotton thread. It will better resist the tensions exerted on the fabric during use.

Prepare the lycra fabric before sewing it

It is important to prepare the Lycra fabric well before starting to sew. Here are some steps to follow:

1. Wash and dry the fabric according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer to avoid shrinkage problems once the project is completed.
2. Lay the lycra fabric on a flat surface, such as a cutting table cut out the pattern pieces. Make sure to respect the direction of the fibers (the direction of the threads) so that your garment fits correctly to the curves of your body.
3. To make marks on the fabric, use Tailor’s chalk or water-erasable markerbecause they will be easily removed without leaving permanent marks.

Sewing technique for lycra fabric

Now that you’ve chosen the right tools and your fabric is ready, here are the best practices for sewing with Lycra fabric:

Adjust your sewing machine

The setting of the sewing machine is essential to obtain a beautiful seam with Lycra fabric. Here’s what you need to check before you start:

• Make sure you use a special needle for elastic fabrics and a polyester thread.
• Set the tension you archive to avoid stitches being too tight, as this could warp the fabric. Experiment with fabric scraps before starting your project.
• Choose the right stitches for stretch fabrics: zigzag stitch, triple stitch or stretch stitch. These stitches allow the thread to stretch well with the fabric during use.
• Don’t forget to use a special foot for jersey or stretchwhich makes sewing lycra easier and helps prevent wrinkles.

Keep a light hand while sewing

When sewing with Lycra fabric, it is important not to pull the fabric while sewing. Let the machine guide the fabric without applying additional tension. This will help prevent waves or wrinkles from forming in the fabric.

Use proper assembly techniques

To successfully assemble your lycra fabric, follow these tips:

• Adopt a fixing system to hold together the pieces of fabric you want to sew. Multipurpose clips are also very useful for this type of fabric, as they do not damage the material and hold the pieces together without slipping.
• THE serger It is ideal for sewing Lycra fabrics as it simultaneously creates a chain stitch and a clean raw edge finish. If you don’t have one, use a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine and then overcast the edges with the same stitch to prevent the fabric from fraying.

Finishes for a professional finish

Finally, here are some additional tips for successfully finishing and giving your project a professional look:

• Adjust the length of the stitches according to the thickness of the fabric, so that the seams are sufficiently resistant and elastic.
• To make the hems, use iron-on tape specifically for stretch fabrics or a double needle that allows you to make two rows of parallel stitches providing a nice elastic finish.
• Consider adding a strip of transparent elastic fabric (elastane) inside the edges, sewing it at the same time as assembling the pieces. It helps strengthen areas subject to strong tension, such as necklines or armholes, maintaining their elasticity.

By following these tips and techniques, you will be ready to take on the challenge of sewing Lycra fabric. Good result!

About the author

Clarisse Mercier

As a sewing lover, I manage the editorial side of ZoneCouture and share my discoveries and advice around this art here.