Tips and tricks for a professional finish

If you’ve ever tried to sew a buttonhole by hand, you know how difficult and challenging it can be. With the tips and tricks I’m sharing with you today, you’ll be making professional-quality buttonholes in no time!

Prepare your project

Before diving into buttonhole sewing, it’s essential to properly prepare your fabric and choose the right tools.

• Choosing the right thread: Use a thread that matches your fabric or opt for a contrasting thread if you want to add a touch of originality to your creation.
• Find a suitable needle: Choose an appropriately sized needle based on the thickness of the fabric. The thicker the fabric, the stronger the needle should be.
• Mark the position of the buttonholes: Use tailor’s chalk to precisely mark the position of the buttonholes on the fabric.
• Consider trying it: Before sewing the final buttonhole, test on a similar piece of fabric to adjust the length and check your technique.

The manual method

For those who don’t have a sewing machine with a buttonhole function, here’s how to make a buttonhole by hand:

1. Prepare the fabric pieces for the buttonhole

First, mark the position of the buttonhole on the fabric as mentioned above. Then, make a small incision at each end of the mark to clearly visualize the length of the buttonhole.

2. Sew the buttonhole

Start by inserting the needle along the inside edge of the buttonhole from the bottom. Then, make blanket or buttonhole stitches by passing the needle through the slit and out over the thread to form a loop. Continue like this until you reach the other end of the buttonhole. Check the spacing between dots regularly to ensure a more uniform result.

3. Cut and open the buttonhole

Once you’re done sewing, it’s time to open the buttonhole. Use very fine, sharp scissors to carefully cut the fabric inside the buttonhole without damaging the stitches. Take your time so as not to damage your work.

The machine method

If you have a sewing machine equipped with a buttonhole function, the process will be faster and simpler:

1. Prepare your machine and fabric

Attach the buttonhole foot to the machine and set the stitch stitch that corresponds to the buttonhole. Next, mark the location of the buttonholes on the fabric.

2. Run a test

Just like with the manual method, make a test buttonhole on a similar piece of fabric to adjust the settings if necessary. This will also save you from wasting materials or time if you make a mistake.

3. Sew the buttonhole

Place the fabric under the presser foot and position it so that the buttonhole mark is aligned with the needle. Lower the buttonhole lever next to the presser foot and slowly begin sewing. The machine will automatically follow a predefined pattern so that the buttonhole is made correctly. When you reach the end, be sure to lock the stitches securely before cutting the thread.

4. Cut and open the buttonhole

As with the manual method, use thin, sharp scissors to carefully cut the fabric inside the buttonhole. Be careful not to damage the stitching.

Extra tip: Reinforce the buttonhole

To ensure a professional finish and increase the life of your buttonholes, you can add an interfacing strip or double-sided tape to the back of the fabric before sewing the buttonhole. This will strengthen the fabric and make the buttonhole more resistant to wear and tear.

About the author

Clarisse Mercier

As a sewing lover, I manage the editorial side of ZoneCouture and share my discoveries and advice around this art here.